As an esthetician, I firmly believe that skin care isn't a one-size-fits-all approach. Our skin evolves with age, and understanding the appropriate routine at various life stages is crucial. With social media we are given a lot of conflicting, and sometimes really bad information about how to best take care of our skin. Here’s what I know from 30 years of practicing esthetics and giving thousands of facials:
Pre-Teens (9-12 Years)
Pre-teen skin is generally resilient, but the epidermis is still thinner as oil glands are’t fully activated (which starts to thicken the skin.) The skin can still be sensitive to sun, chemicals, and injury. The goal is to establish early habits to set the foundation for a lifetime of healthy skin, and simplicity is key!
Cleansing: Gentle oil or lotion cleansers
Toner: Basic hydrating mist
Moisturizer: basic lotion or skin oil
SPF: no chemical sunscreens- try for an all natural mineral based sunscreen
Teens (13-19 Years)
Adolescence brings hormonal changes, which can lead to increased oil production and breakouts. The focus is on balancing and preventing acne. A basic routine for teens is similar to preteens but the type of products may begin to change depending on if acne is developing. This is a good time to start receiving quarterly facials. Here are some recommendations for teens per skin type:
Oily/Acne:
Cleanser: Salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide or charcoal based; ok to use a cleansing oil PRIOR to washing. Avoid using a gut sha if you have severe acne, but light breakouts and oily skin are OK.
Toner: hydrating toner meant for oily skin, if really oily a salicylic acid toner is OK Exfoliation: Gentle scrub 2x a week if needed (If using salicylic acid you may not need this)
Moisturizer: Water based serum or very light oil
SPF: zinc or mineral based sunscreen.
*Ingredients that help heal and prevent acne are zinc, salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, tea tree oil, chamomile oil, and calendula.
Normal/Dry/Combination:
Cleansers: Cleansing oil and/or gentle foaming cleanser. Can use a gua sha with the cleansing oil.
Toner: Hydrating mist with hyaluronic acid
Exfoliation: Gentle scrub 2x a week
Moisturizer: facial oil or basic moisturizer
Sunscreen: zinc or mineral based sunscreen
Young Adult 20-30 Years
Establish consistency and start preventive care. Collagen production begins to slow, and skin may need more hydration and antioxidants. Prioritize sun protection and start a good gua sha and facial yoga routine, and start getting monthly facials with maybe four microdermabrasions a year.
Cleanser: Cleansing oil and/or gentle foaming cleanser. Can use a gua sha with the cleansing oil.
Toner: Hydrating Mists or Salicylic acid toner for oily/acne
Exfoliation: Gentle scrub 2x a week
Serum: Hyaluronic acid serums and/or niacinamide serum
Moisturizer: Vitamin C to combat oxidative stress.
Sunscreen: Daily, broad-spectrum SPF (preferably mineral based)
*Skin Type Nuances:
Dry Skin: Richer creams, hydrating serums.
Oily Skin: Lightweight, oil-free moisturizers.
Adult 30-40 Years
At this point oxidative stress begins to show. Focus on anti-aging, hydration, and repair. The first signs of aging, such as fine lines and dullness, become more apparent. Stay consistent with facial yoga and gua sha. Stay consistent with your facials and add red light. Start quarterly micro channelling treatments.
Cleanser: Cleansing oil and/or gentle foaming cleanser. Can use a gua sha with the cleansing oil.
Toner: Hydrating Mists or Salicylic acid toner for oily/acne
Exfoliation: Gentle scrub 2x a week
Serum: Hyaluronic acid, Vitamin C, Retinal
Moisturizer: Nourishing skin oil, vitamin c moisturizer, heavy creams
Sunscreen: Daily, broad-spectrum SPF (preferably mineral based)
*Introduce retinoids (Vitamin A derivatives) to promote cell turnover and collagen production.
Skin Type Nuances:
Dry Skin: Overnight masks, nutrient-dense creams.
Oily/Combination Skin: Balance moisture with oil-control ingredients.
Mature Adult Over 40 Years
Same as above, and prioritize hydration, repair, and more intensive anti-aging treatments like IPL, Laser, and regular micro channeling. Consider HRT and topical estradiol to assist the skin in keeping up collagen production.
Cleanser: Gentle, non-drying. Oil Cleansing with Gua Sha and Facial Yoga.
Toner: Hydrating mist with hyaluronic acid
Exfoliation: Gentle scrub 2x a week
Moisturizer: Richer, formulations with ceramides, peptides, and hyaluronic acid.
Sunscreen: Daily, SPF 30 or higher (preferably mineral based)
*Anti-Aging: Stronger retinoids, antioxidants like Vitamin C and E.
Skin Type Nuances:
Dry Skin: Intensively hydrating products, regular use of serums and essences.
Oily/Combination Skin: Lightweight serums, balancing treatments for oil control.
**Caution with Anti-Aging Products
Using anti-aging products like retinoids too early can irritate and disrupt young skin, leading to sensitivity and other issues. It’s essential to match the product’s strength and type to the skin's current needs and resilience.
By tailoring skin care to age and skin type, we can maintain healthy, vibrant skin at every age, ensuring it meets its specific requirements effectively. Remember, consistency and protection (especially sunscreen) are the bedrock of any good skin care routine. If you need any further help, book a consultation with a professional to help you choose the right products. Side note: Anybody at a mall, Sephora, or any other retail outlet are not considered professionals! Please see a licensed esthetician or a dermatologist.
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